Turkiye
(back)
Symi HALF-WAY
between Rhodes and Old Knidos and just off the tip of the Loryma peninsula lies
the island of Symi. Mythology relates that it was originally colonised by
Lakedaimonians, Argives, Rhodians and Knidians, but since at least the fifth
century BC it belonged to Rhodes, into whose political and social structures it
was incorporated as an integral part of the Rhodian state. Like the other small
islands in the area it remained Rhodian until the dismemberment of the Rhodian
system of local government at an unknown date in the Byzantine period.
Symi has good harbours at its capital on the north coast, which comprises Yialos
(the port) and Chorio (on the hillside above), and at the Bay of Panormitis in
the south, where there is now a large monastery. It was known for its timber and
sponges in ancient times, but it has little agricultural land, and was of
relatively little account. Its heyday was in the eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries AD, when its population, at over 30,000, outnumbered that of Rhodes;
its prosperity was then based again on timber for ship building, on coastal
trade, and on sponges. The advent of the iron ship spelt the end of the fi rst
two trades (and in any case only a few stretches of the original pine-forests
still survive), and the sponges have long ago been fi shed out. Now there are
only about 3,000 Symiots, but the island’s former prosperity is reflected in the
splendid neoclassical archontika (“bosses’ houses”) on the slopes above the
harbour. Many of these have been colourfully restored in recent years, and
Yialos has become, in a mercifully small way, a haunt of Beautiful People. But
lack of water has fortunately restricted the development of tourism, and the
bulk of visitors are day-trippers from Rhodes or Kos, who are efficiently
fleeced and sent on their way.
Few ancient remains are extant, but on the way up to Chorio there is a small
museum, although the writer has never succeeded in fi nding it open. The climb
to Chorio is well worth the effort for the views, particularly from the Church
of the Panagia on the top of the ancient acropolis. This is believed to have
been built on the site of a temple of Athena Polias, Athena Protectress of the
City. Some walling of the classical fortress can be seen here surmounted by
walling of the Castle of the Knights of St John, in which is embedded a shield
with the arms of the Knights quartered with those of one of the last Grand
Masters, Pierre d’Aubusson.
WESTMINSTER CLASSIC TOURS